The Whitney House, a name that initially didn't leave a great impression on me. Before my first visit, I casually glanced at its menu online and couldn't help but roll my eyes. "Just another chicken-sandwich-slash-Caesar-salad place," I grumbled, thinking it was just another ordinary gastropub that failed to offer a unique taste.

Don't Judge by Appearance

However, as a restaurant critic, I know the importance of not making hasty judgments. My job is to explore with all my senses and avoid superficial conclusions. And at the Whitney House, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary this month, I'm glad I did.The Whitney House offers what it calls "thoughtfully crafted American comfort food." It opened in 2014 in a downtown Worthington space with two main rooms surrounding a central kitchen. After a post-COVID renovation, the interiors have been updated, making it an inviting place. If I lived closer, it might well become my regular neighborhood joint.What changed my mind? Firstly, most of the dishes we tried were flavorful and well-executed. The menu may offer familiar fare, but Chef Brian Aller and his staff prepare everything from scratch without relying on shortcuts. Hand-cut vegetables, prepared by people not machines, added a special touch to the dishes.At the bar, we had a great experience. Friendly regulars were engaged in a lively conversation with the chatty bartender. The dark and cozy tavern offered a Midwestern friendliness in a traditional New England pub setting. The drink menu was extensive, with a dozen rotating craft cocktails, including non-alcoholic and barrel-aged concoctions, along with a deep selection of mostly California wines and domestic and local craft beers.We started with a New England Collins ($10), which combined gin and vodka with blueberries and lemon juice. It was pleasantly tart despite its vibrant color. Alongside it, we had the Smoked Salmon Dip ($16), a cream cheese-based spread reminiscent of a classic bagel schmear. However, the small amount of dip was disproportionate to its accompaniments, and it was a bit too cold and stiff.For dinner, the seasonal house salad ($13) was a combination of mixed greens topped with crisped prosciutto, dried cherries, candied spiced pecans, and creamy cambozola cheese. The sour vinaigrette was a bit overpowering initially, but it paired well with the entrée.The Ohio City Gnocchi ($19) was earthy and creamy, with Cleveland pasta company's dense dumplings topped with a rich sauce of finely minced mushrooms and cream, finished with large shavings of parmesan. The Pan Seared Walleye ($37) was a large fillet dusted in Cajun spices, topped with shrimp and accompanied by a large serving of vegetable hash with three colors of bell peppers, zucchini, cherry tomatoes, and spicy andouille sausage.Dessert was a surprise hit at the Whitney House. With six different choices, it's clear that the restaurant takes dessert seriously. I opted for the classic Warm Maldon Sea Salt Chocolate Chunk Cookies ($12), three warm cookies with big pieces of chocolate served with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce. But the Fudgy Ice Cream Pretzel Cake ($13) and the Grown Up Chocolate Birthday Cake ($12) also tempted me.On weekends, the Whitney House is open for brunch. I was impressed by the restraint on the brunch menu, with reasonable portions and balanced flavors. The egg sandwich ($14) combined two over easy eggs, ham, and aioli on a small toasted ciabatta roll, with peppery arugula and sharp red onions adding a refreshing touch. The Baked Cinnamon-Butter Brioche French Toast ($15) was surprisingly light and savory, with thick slices of cinnamon-swirled bread soaked in an eggy custard and grilled. Two pieces of Berkshire bacon accompanied the dish, and a light drizzle of maple syrup enhanced the flavors.In my experience, finding good regular neighborhood spots is not as easy as it seems. The Whitney House strikes the right balance between casual and upscale, being reliable while still creative and delicious. It was a pleasant surprise to discover this hidden gem.This story appeared in the December 2024 issue of Columbus Monthly. Subscribe here.