The Whitney House, a name that initially didn't leave a great impression on me. Before my first visit, I casually glanced at its menu online and couldn't help but roll my eyes. "Just another chicken-sandwich-slash-Caesar-salad place," I grumbled, thinking it was just another ordinary gastropub that failed to offer a unique taste.

Don't Judge by Appearance

However, as a restaurant critic, I know the importance of not making hasty judgments. My job is to explore with all my senses and avoid superficial conclusions. And at the Whitney House, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary this month, I'm glad I did.The Whitney House offers what it calls "thoughtfully crafted American comfort food." It opened in 2014 in a downtown Worthington space with two main rooms surrounding a central kitchen. After a post-COVID renovation, the interiors have been updated, making it an inviting place. If I lived closer, it might well become my regular neighborhood joint.What changed my mind? Firstly, most of the dishes we tried were flavorful and well-executed. The menu may offer familiar fare, but Chef Brian Aller and his staff prepare everything from scratch without relying on shortcuts. Hand-cut vegetables, prepared by people not machines, added a special touch to the dishes.At the bar, we had a great experience. Friendly regulars were engaged in a lively conversation with the chatty bartender. The dark and cozy tavern offered a Midwestern friendliness in a traditional New England pub setting. The drink menu was extensive, with a dozen rotating craft cocktails, including non-alcoholic and barrel-aged concoctions, along with a deep selection of mostly California wines and domestic and local craft beers.We started with a New England Collins ($10), which combined gin and vodka with blueberries and lemon juice. It was pleasantly tart despite its vibrant color. Alongside it, we had the Smoked Salmon Dip ($16), a cream cheese-based spread reminiscent of a classic bagel schmear. However, the small amount of dip was disproportionate to its accompaniments, and it was a bit too cold and stiff.For dinner, the seasonal house salad ($13) was a combination of mixed greens topped with crisped prosciutto, dried cherries, candied spiced pecans, and creamy cambozola cheese. The sour vinaigrette was a bit overpowering initially, but it paired well with the entrée.The Ohio City Gnocchi ($19) was earthy and creamy, with Cleveland pasta company's dense dumplings topped with a rich sauce of finely minced mushrooms and cream, finished with large shavings of parmesan. The Pan Seared Walleye ($37) was a large fillet dusted in Cajun spices, topped with shrimp and accompanied by a large serving of vegetable hash with three colors of bell peppers, zucchini, cherry tomatoes, and spicy andouille sausage.Dessert was a surprise hit at the Whitney House. With six different choices, it's clear that the restaurant takes dessert seriously. I opted for the classic Warm Maldon Sea Salt Chocolate Chunk Cookies ($12), three warm cookies with big pieces of chocolate served with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce. But the Fudgy Ice Cream Pretzel Cake ($13) and the Grown Up Chocolate Birthday Cake ($12) also tempted me.On weekends, the Whitney House is open for brunch. I was impressed by the restraint on the brunch menu, with reasonable portions and balanced flavors. The egg sandwich ($14) combined two over easy eggs, ham, and aioli on a small toasted ciabatta roll, with peppery arugula and sharp red onions adding a refreshing touch. The Baked Cinnamon-Butter Brioche French Toast ($15) was surprisingly light and savory, with thick slices of cinnamon-swirled bread soaked in an eggy custard and grilled. Two pieces of Berkshire bacon accompanied the dish, and a light drizzle of maple syrup enhanced the flavors.In my experience, finding good regular neighborhood spots is not as easy as it seems. The Whitney House strikes the right balance between casual and upscale, being reliable while still creative and delicious. It was a pleasant surprise to discover this hidden gem.This story appeared in the December 2024 issue of Columbus Monthly. Subscribe here.

I never considered myself a “foodie” initially. It wasn't that I didn't enjoy food; rather, I might have enjoyed it a bit too much. This led to me becoming significantly overweight and having a frozen pizza addiction. To address my growing health issue, I swung to the opposite end of the food spectrum and consumed only bland chicken, rice, broccoli, and protein shakes for a few years. I had shifted from junk food hedonism to health food puritanism.

Meeting Eva: A Game Changer

I was skinnier but also miserable and malnourished. That's when I met my now wife, Eva. She's 100% Italian, born and raised in a small village in Calabria. In Italy, almost no food is imported, and most are grown, raised, or produced within a few miles. Every notable event is marked with an enormous meal. Eva was new to America and my philosophy of a protein shake being an acceptable dinner.Falling in love with a southern Italian woman while believing food was poison presented challenges. For the sake of love, I suffered through her pleas to try new foods and rolled my eyes at her claims about the chicken I was eating. I didn't understand why she cared so much about what I ate.I wasn't prepared for how important food is to most Italians. They spend most of the day talking about food. The first thing they talk about when they wake up is what they want to eat for lunch. While cooking and eating, they discuss future meals. I found amusement in her rants against American junk food.I started filming her reactions and posting them on YouTube. People liked them, and we kept filming.

Becoming a YouTube Duo

Initially, I thought of myself as the straight man, while Eva was the passionate idealist. But I later realized I was the clown. There are many food reaction videos on YouTube, but Eva was different. She would suggest demonstrating how to make an authentic Italian calzone.At this point, I almost never let Eva cook for me as pasta and pizza were too fattening. Our YouTube videos became a weekly documentation of me tasting her cooking for the first time.

The Shocking Realization

I remember the first time I was truly blown away. We made a video where Eva tried the Americanized version of “Fettuccini Alfredo” and then the traditional Roman “fettuccine all’Alfredo”. The American version was good, but the Italian dish was in a different league. I learned to appreciate the Italian culinary philosophy of simplicity and good ingredients.To our surprise, the videos started to get traction, and thousands of people asked for her recipes. We shared hundreds of authentic Italian recipes with millions of viewers and took them on food tours through Italy. We wrote a cookbook to introduce a broader audience to these dishes.

Learning the True Meaning of Food

I learned that food isn't healthier if it's bland and tasteless. Eating a balanced diet with carbs and fat got me in better physical shape. All-natural chicken tasted much better.Most importantly, I learned why Eva cared so much about what I ate. For her and many Italians, food is love. Feeding someone is the purest expression of caring. This attitude was common in all cultures at one point but has been lost due to modern life pressures.When my wife pestered me to eat differently, it wasn't nagging; it was love. Sticking with someone who turns down fresh pasta made with love for a protein shake is true love.Now, when we are apart and connect over the phone, my first question is always, “What did you eat today?”Harper Alexander was a cinematographer in Los Angeles before meeting Eva Santaguida. Together, they co-founded Pasta Grammar, a YouTube channel dedicated to traditional Italian cooking. Their first cookbook, Italian Family Kitchen, is out now.