In a captivating conversation at London’s Lightroom, Pierpaolo Piccioli, the visionary behind Valentino, shared an intimate glimpse into his creative evolution. Joined by Laura Ingham from Vogue’s Global Fashion Network, Piccioli delved into the inspirations and philosophies that have shaped some of the most iconic fashion moments of the past decade. The event was held within the immersive four-storey exhibition, "Vogue: Inventing The Runway," which explores the dynamic history of the catwalk.

Discover the Magic Behind Couture's Most Celebrated Moments

The Dawn of a New Era

The discussion began with a reflection on Piccioli’s solo tenure at Valentino, starting in 2016. This pivotal moment marked not only a new chapter for the designer but also for the house itself. Drawing inspiration from his daughter Benedetta, who was engrossed in Nietzsche’s philosophy, Piccioli embraced the concept of l’oubli—forgetting the past to focus on the present. This philosophical shift led him to reinterpret historical motifs, blending elements from Renaissance art and punk fashion into a modern context. By liberating these references from their traditional constraints, Piccioli crafted a contemporary narrative that resonates deeply with today’s audiences.His exploration extended beyond mere aesthetics; it was a profound rethinking of how fashion can reflect societal changes. For instance, the influence of Hieronymus Bosch’s intricate tableaux and Zandra Rhodes’s rebellious designs provided a rich tapestry of ideas. These influences were distilled into collections that celebrated both heritage and innovation, creating a unique balance between time-honored techniques and forward-thinking design. This approach not only revitalized Valentino but also set new standards in the fashion industry.

Cool Couture: A Revolutionary Approach

Piccioli’s spring/summer 2018 haute couture collection exemplified his vision of “cool couture.” This collection redefined what couture could be—lighter, more accessible, and eminently wearable. Despite his deep appreciation for couture traditions, such as taffeta opera coats and lavish embroideries, Piccioli sought to infuse these elements with a modern sensibility. He introduced casual pieces like white string vests and wide-leg chinos, transforming them through meticulous craftsmanship into garments that retained the essence of couture while appealing to a broader audience.This innovative approach did not stem from a desire to rebel against tradition but rather from a genuine love for couture’s inherent beauty. Piccioli explained that he admired the decadence of feathers and frou-frou, yet he recognized the need to adapt these elements for contemporary tastes. His ability to harmonize tradition with modernity resulted in a collection that was both reverent and revolutionary. The result was a stunning fusion of classic elegance and urban cool, demonstrating that couture could indeed be relevant in today’s fast-paced world.

Honoring the Craftsmanship Behind the Scenes

One of Piccioli’s most significant contributions to fashion is his unwavering commitment to recognizing the artisans who bring his visions to life. In a bold move, he broke away from the convention of naming looks with abstract titles like “sunset.” Instead, he chose to honor the atelier workers responsible for each creation by naming the silhouettes after them. This gesture highlighted the collaborative nature of fashion design and underscored the importance of every individual involved in the process.By attributing the names of the atelier workers to the garments, Piccioli elevated the status of these often-overlooked professionals. It was a powerful statement about the value of craftsmanship and the collective effort required to produce a successful collection. This practice not only humanized the design process but also fostered a sense of pride and ownership among the team. Through this simple yet profound change, Piccioli ensured that the unsung heroes of fashion received the recognition they deserved.

A Legacy of Innovation and Inspiration

Piccioli’s journey at Valentino has been marked by continuous innovation and a relentless pursuit of artistic excellence. His ability to blend historical references with contemporary trends has made him one of the most influential designers of our time. Each collection tells a story—one that celebrates the past while looking toward the future. Whether through the reinterpretation of classic motifs or the introduction of groundbreaking concepts, Piccioli has consistently pushed the boundaries of what fashion can achieve.His work serves as a testament to the power of creativity and collaboration. By fostering an environment where ideas can flourish and talents are celebrated, Piccioli has not only transformed Valentino but also inspired a new generation of designers. His legacy will undoubtedly continue to shape the fashion landscape for years to come, leaving an indelible mark on the industry.