At the heart of Milan Fashion Week, Versace unveiled its Fall 2025 collection with a vibrant and daring aesthetic that resonates deeply with the brand's DNA. The fashion house’s creative director, Donatella Versace, embraced an unconventional approach, celebrating individuality and empowerment through flamboyant prints and metallic dresses reminiscent of the iconic Fall 1998 collection. This season, makeup artist Pat McGrath was tasked with crafting a beauty look that would complement the boldness of the garments. McGrath drew inspiration from the rebellious allure of model Kristen McMenamy, whose signature lip color has become a symbol of defiance and style.
To achieve this striking look, McGrath focused on creating a radiant base using her Divine Skin products, enhancing the models' natural glow. She applied luminous highlighters on the high points of the face to catch the light, ensuring every detail shimmered under the runway lights. However, the true centerpiece of the makeup was the lips. McGrath opted for a deep, rich burgundy shade, blending it with cooler tones in the center for a multidimensional effect. The final touch was a clear gloss, giving the lips a glassy finish that perfectly mirrored the audacious spirit of the collection.
The legacy of Kristen McMenamy is intertwined with the history of fashion. Her iconic appearances on runways during the early '90s, particularly for Chanel and Fendi, showcased her commitment to unconventional beauty standards. McMenamy's bold lip colors and grunge-inspired outfits became emblematic of a generation's rebellion against traditional norms. Today, her influence continues to inspire contemporary designers like McGrath and Versace, who celebrate diversity and self-expression. This collaboration between McGrath and Versace not only honors the past but also paves the way for a future where fashion remains a powerful tool for personal empowerment and artistic innovation.
In this engaging narrative, a perfume enthusiast recounts their deep dive into the world of niche fragrances, focusing on Ormonde Jayne. Starting from an eBay purchase in 2008 to a memorable Zoom call with Linda Pilkington, the founder of Ormonde Jayne, the story unfolds through personal experiences and insights into the brand's evolution. The piece explores the challenges faced by the company, including regulatory changes that led to the retirement of certain scents, as well as its future aspirations. It also highlights the personal touch Linda brings to her interactions with customers, revealing fascinating anecdotes about her life and work.
A Meeting of Minds: Linda Pilkington and Her Fragrance Legacy
In the heart of London, nestled along Old Bond Street, lies the flagship store of Ormonde Jayne, a brand renowned for its luxurious and innovative perfumes. For over a decade, Linda Pilkington has been at the helm, steering the company through both challenges and triumphs. In late November 2024, I had the privilege of joining a series of Zoom calls organized by Linda, where she shared her thoughts on the brand’s growth and the intricacies of fragrance creation.
Linda emphasized Ormonde Jayne's commitment to remaining independent while expanding thoughtfully. She spoke fondly of the brand's loyal customer base, which spans multiple generations. One of the most intriguing topics was the "sleeping beauties"—discontinued scents due to regulatory or supply issues. Linda explained how these challenges often stem from the high-quality ingredients used in her formulations, sometimes exceeding permitted levels of certain molecules. Despite these hurdles, Linda remains optimistic about reviving some of these treasures, like Orris Noir, which is nearly ready for reintroduction.
The conversation then shifted to the practical aspects of running a perfume business. Linda revealed that she applies perfume generously throughout the day, even on public transport, spreading joy among unsuspecting commuters. This practice extends to various establishments, such as The Mandarin Oriental hotel, which uses Orris Noir as an ambient fragrance. The discussion also touched upon the move towards parfum strength, aimed at offering better value and longevity to consumers.
During a subsequent visit to the store in January 2025, I met Linda in person, where we delved deeper into the world of Ormonde Jayne. Despite the wild weather, the boutique provided a warm and inviting atmosphere. Linda’s energy and passion were evident as she discussed her favorite scents, celebrity clients, and even her beloved cats, Teddy and Freddie. The visit concluded with a generous goody bag and heartfelt advice to stay dry in the rain.
From this journey, it becomes clear that Linda Pilkington is not just a perfumer but a storyteller, weaving narratives through scent. Her dedication to quality and innovation sets Ormonde Jayne apart in the competitive world of luxury fragrances. As the brand continues to evolve, it remains a testament to the power of creativity and perseverance.
Meeting Linda Pilkington and learning about Ormonde Jayne’s journey has left me with a renewed appreciation for the artistry behind each bottle. The challenges faced by the industry highlight the importance of balancing innovation with tradition. Linda’s unwavering commitment to excellence serves as an inspiration, reminding us that true craftsmanship transcends trends and time. Whether through a Zoom call or an in-person encounter, Linda’s passion for fragrance is infectious, leaving a lasting impression on all who experience it.
In late autumn, an exhibition at the Barber Institute of Fine Arts in Edgbaston offered a unique sensory experience that combined visual art with olfactory sensations. This event, which ran from October and concluded on January 26th, attracted visitors curious about the intersection of scent and Victorian-era paintings. The exhibition, curated by Dr. Christina Bradstreet, explored how scents were represented in Pre-Raphaelite and Aesthetic movement artworks, revealing the often-overlooked role of fragrance in these masterpieces.
A Journey Through Time and Scent
The journey began on a crisp autumn day when I boarded a train to Birmingham, arriving at University North Gate. After a brief but efficient bus ride, I found myself standing before the elegant Art Deco structure of the Barber Institute. Founded in 1932 by Lady Martha Constance Hattie Barber, this institution has become a treasure trove for art enthusiasts. Despite its advanced age, the building exudes a timeless charm, enhanced by its heraldic motifs that add a touch of color and history.
Upon entering, I was immediately struck by the exhibition's innovative approach. The show was divided into three thematic sections, each highlighting different aspects of scent in Victorian society. The first section, "Spring Awakenings," featured pastoral scenes filled with floral fragrances, evoking a sense of freshness and reverie. The second, "All Smell is Disease," delved into the darker side of scent, exploring how odors were linked to disease and moral decay. Finally, "Bells & Smells" showcased the controversial use of incense in religious rituals during the Victorian era.
The highlight of the exhibition was undoubtedly the AirParfum technology, which allowed visitors to experience specific scents associated with individual paintings. By pressing a button, one could release a puff of fragrance designed to complement the artwork. For instance, Millais' "The Blind Girl" was paired with two distinct scents: one evoking a rain-soaked meadow, and another capturing the wool and cotton shawl worn by the subject. While some visitors found these experiences delightful, others, like myself, had mixed reactions to the scents.
Despite the occasional technical hiccup, the exhibition succeeded in creating a multisensory experience that enriched the viewing of these iconic paintings. It also highlighted the importance of scent in Victorian culture, revealing how it intersected with issues such as sanitation, morality, and women's independence.
Reflections on the Exhibition
This visit to the Barber Institute was both enlightening and thought-provoking. It reminded me that art is not just a visual experience but can engage all our senses. The exhibition's exploration of scent in Victorian art opened up new ways of appreciating these works, encouraging viewers to consider the implicit sensory elements within them. Moreover, it underscored the significance of interdisciplinary approaches in art curation, blending history, science, and sensory experiences to create a richer understanding of the past. For anyone interested in the multifaceted nature of art, this exhibition was a must-see, offering a fresh perspective on a well-known artistic movement.