In recent years, the fashion industry has faced unprecedented challenges, particularly for independent designers. A report from late 2024 highlighted that both 2024 and 2025 have been difficult periods for these creators. Building a successful fashion business has always been complex, but recent market shifts, including the closure of several prominent retailers, have exacerbated these difficulties. Despite this, there remains a strong commitment to supporting emerging talent, with key players like Ssense playing a pivotal role in nurturing new voices in fashion. This article explores the current state of the fashion industry and the efforts being made to support smaller brands.
The fashion landscape has undergone significant changes over the past few years. According to industry experts, such as former British Fashion Council CEO Caroline Rush and Machine-A founder Stavros Karelis, the situation is more challenging than ever before. Karelis noted that the past 15 years have seen increasing obstacles for fashion brands, especially emerging designers. The decline of major retailers like Matches has left a gap in the market, making it crucial to support small-scale designers who bring fresh ideas and innovation to the industry.
Ssense, a leading online retailer, has taken a proactive approach to supporting emerging designers. Brigitte Chartrand, Vice President of Women’s Wear Buying at Ssense, emphasized that championing new talent has been integral to the company’s success. Since its inception, Ssense has dedicated itself to promoting innovative designers alongside established names. The platform offers customers a curated selection of both well-known and lesser-known brands, ensuring that emerging designers receive equal attention. Through features like "You May Also Like" and personalized recommendations, Ssense encourages exploration and discovery, giving lesser-known brands valuable exposure.
Beyond simply featuring these brands on their platform, Ssense also collaborates with emerging designers on exclusive capsule collections. These collaborations provide designers with insights into customer purchasing behaviors and merchandising strategies, helping them refine their offerings. For instance, Ssense has partnered with designers like Wed Studio, Nicklas Skovgaard, and Conner Ives on bridal collections, further expanding their reach. Additionally, Ssense has featured rising stars such as Hodakova, Lii, Colleen Allen, and Julie Kegels in editorial content and marketing campaigns, providing them with additional visibility.
Looking ahead, Ssense is committed to continuing its support for emerging designers. Chartrand highlighted some of the brands they are excited about for the upcoming year. For fans of Bottega Veneta and The Row, she recommends Christen, praising the craftsmanship and quality of the pieces. Lemaire enthusiasts will likely appreciate Bambou Roger Kwong, while Laura Andraschko is expected to attract fans of Fidan Novruzova and Abra. The addition of Willy Chavarria womenswear further diversifies the offerings available on the platform.
The fashion industry's shift towards individuality, especially among younger generations, underscores the importance of supporting small-scale designers. These creators offer unique, one-of-a-kind pieces that larger labels often cannot match. As the demand for distinctive fashion continues to grow, platforms like Ssense play a vital role in fostering the next generation of design talent. By providing exposure and support, they ensure that the thrill of fashion remains alive and vibrant.
In the late 1940s, a young British woman named Barbara emerged as a trailblazer in the fashion world. Her journey began when a photograph in the Daily Express caught the attention of designer Julian Rose, leading to opportunities with prestigious publications like British Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. By the summer of 1948, Barbara made her Paris debut for Christian Dior, where her unique physique perfectly complemented the designer’s creations. Over the next few years, she became a sought-after model for top designers such as Cristóbal Balenciaga. Barbara’s ability to embody both elegance and approachability made her a symbol of British fashion on an international stage. She commanded high fees and carefully selected assignments, ensuring her status as a pioneer in the modeling industry.
Barbara's career took off after a photograph in a popular newspaper drew the admiration of prominent designer Julian Rose. This serendipitous discovery opened doors to collaborations with leading fashion magazines. In the summer of 1948, she ventured to Paris, posing for renowned photographer Clifford Coffin at Christian Dior. Dior was particularly impressed by how his designs accentuated Barbara’s figure, leading to numerous iconic photoshoots. One standout moment came in 1949 when Horst P Horst captured her in the breathtaking “Junon” gown, which later gained renewed fame through Natalie Portman’s red carpet appearance in 2023. Vogue praised one of her looks as being as universally appealing as the Ford automobile, highlighting not only the dress's design but also Barbara’s unparalleled ability to sell it.
The French couturiers quickly embraced Barbara, recognizing her potential to elevate their brands. She worked extensively with Cristóbal Balenciaga and became the first British model to achieve such prominence abroad. Known initially as a "mannequin," Barbara transcended this title, becoming what could be considered the first "super-mannequin." Her versatility allowed her to represent luxurious styles in London and Paris while maintaining a connection with fans across the UK. Barbara participated in distinctly British photo sessions, including memorable shoots at Charing Cross Station and atop a Lancashire textiles factory. Her annual earnings soared to £3,000, far surpassing the typical salary of the era.
By the third year of her career, Barbara understood the importance of exclusivity. She strategically increased her fees and turned down less appealing offers, focusing on prestigious assignments. Seeking perfection, she even underwent cosmetic surgery on her nose. During this period, she collaborated with photographers John Deakin and Anthony Denney, producing some of her most significant images. Barbara embarked on a global tour, representing British fashion in America, Australia, and New Zealand. Her balancing act between visibility and scarcity became a topic of discussion, reflecting challenges that many aspiring supermodels would face in the future. Despite the delicate balance, Barbara remained a timeless icon in the fashion world.
In the world of cinema, few events capture the essence of British film quite like the BAFTA Awards. Known for their unpredictable outcomes and candid moments, these awards celebrate the best in filmmaking while showcasing a distinct British charm. This year, as we approach the 2025 edition, excitement is building over potential surprises and memorable performances that will grace the stage. The event promises not only to honor outstanding achievements but also to provide an unforgettable evening filled with entertainment and emotion.
The Road to the Red Carpet: What We Know So Far
In the heart of winter, the anticipation for the 2025 BAFTAs has already begun. On January 7th, the nominees for the EE Rising Star award were revealed, featuring up-and-coming talents such as Mikey Madison from "Anora" and Jharrel Jerome from "Unstoppable." Meanwhile, the longlist was released on January 3rd, offering a glimpse into the diverse range of films and artists vying for recognition. Categories like Best Film, Outstanding British Film, and Debut by a British Writer, Director or Producer highlight a mix of established names and fresh faces. Notable films include "Dune: Part Two," "Conclave," and "Emilia Pérez," each bringing unique narratives to the forefront.
The ceremony itself will take place on February 16th at the Royal Festival Hall, marking a continuation of its new home since 2023. David Tennant, who hosted last year’s event, will return to guide the proceedings. With voting set to conclude on January 15th, the final nominations will soon be announced, setting the stage for what promises to be a thrilling night of accolades and surprises.
This year, the BAFTAs introduce a new category—Best Children’s and Family Film—celebrating intergenerational storytelling. Performances, though less predictable than at the Oscars, are always a highlight. Last year saw Sophie Ellis-Bextor performing "Murder on the Dancefloor" and Hannah Waddingham singing during the In Memoriam segment. This year, anything could happen, adding to the excitement.
Inspiration and Reflection
From a journalist's perspective, the BAFTAs serve as more than just an awards show; they are a testament to the vibrant and innovative spirit of British cinema. The introduction of new categories reflects a growing commitment to inclusivity and diversity in storytelling. As we look forward to this year's event, it's clear that the BAFTAs continue to evolve, celebrating both tradition and innovation. For audiences, it's a reminder of the power of film to bring people together, inspire change, and create lasting memories. Whether through heartfelt speeches or unexpected performances, the BAFTAs remind us why we love cinema in the first place.