The majestic Cascade Range, stretching from British Columbia to Northern California, mesmerizes with its breathtaking scenery, diverse recreational opportunities, and a series of dramatic volcanoes. Among these, Oregon's own geological wonders, including Mount Jefferson, the Three Sisters, Crater Lake, and Newberry Volcano, stand as silent sentinels. While these giants have been dormant for centuries, their forested slopes and elevated lakes create some of the region's most picturesque settings. It is within this splendid backdrop that the inviting town of La Pine, nestled within the Deschutes National Forest, welcomes visitors.
Situated just 30 miles south of Bend, known for its stunning vistas and artisanal breweries, La Pine offers convenient access to a wealth of natural attractions. A mere 15-minute drive north leads to La Pine State Park, a natural haven bordering the Upper Deschutes River. This park boasts 14 miles of multi-use trails and exceptional trout fishing. Visitors can stroll along an ADA-accessible path to admire 'Big Tree' or 'Big Red,' a remarkable ponderosa pine towering 162 feet and over 500 years old. Camping here provides an ideal base for exploring regional gems like Crater Lake National Park, just 60 miles southwest, renowned for its pristine air quality and spectacular hiking paths.
La Pine holds the distinction of being Oregon's youngest city, officially established in 2006. However, its role as a pivotal point in the Cascade foothills predates its official incorporation by many years. French fur traders in the 19th century recognized the area's potential for settlement, and since then, the community has steadily grown to become home to approximately 2,500 residents, with nearly 20,000 living in the broader surrounding area. With an average of 300 sunny days annually, La Pine provides an excellent gateway to central Oregon's most coveted hiking trails, campgrounds, and state and national parks.
Outdoor adventures often ignite a hearty appetite, and La Pine is well-equipped to satisfy with a diverse culinary scene. Begin your day at Rise N Shine Breakfast and Brunch, a popular local food truck serving a rotating menu of breakfast burritos and burgers in a laid-back, backyard setting. For more food truck delights, explore The Chubby Duck or visit Wetlands Taphouse, which hosts a variety of guest trucks like LaChapelle's Pizza, Fat Kat BBQ, Fish Lips, and Corn Dog Company. Dining options for lunch and dinner include The Harvest Depot for comforting classics, Cinco de Mayo Mexican Restaurant, and Badlands Artisan Distillery. For locally crafted beverages, Legend Cider Company offers a refreshing experience.
As evening approaches, choose from various accommodation options, such as vacation rentals at DiamondStone Guest Lodges. Alternatively, a 20-minute drive north leads to Sunriver Resort, offering a luxurious escape with stunning natural surroundings, just 15 minutes from Bend. For those inclined towards rustic charm, the area's top-tier camping sites await.
To the east of La Pine, a myriad of hiking trails awaits around Paulina Lake and the expansive, active Newberry Crater—a colossal caldera spanning 17 miles. A mere half-hour drive from downtown La Pine brings you to Paulina Falls, a magnificent cascade plunging from Paulina Creek, originating from Paulina Lake. This area is also home to Paulina Lake Campground, managed by the U.S. Forest Service, accommodating tents and RVs of all sizes.
On the opposite side of the volcano lies East Lake, which, alongside Paulina Lake, presents abundant opportunities for camping, fishing, paddling, and birdwatching. East Lake and Cinder Hill Campgrounds both offer convenient access to the water, providing spectacular views of the surrounding caldera. Numerous unforgettable hiking trails meander around the lakes, affording astonishing vistas of the volcano. Among these is the Paulina Lakeshore Loop #3955, a 7-mile trail tracing the perimeter of Paulina Lake. For a more rigorous challenge, embark on the Paulina Peak Trail, a 6.1-mile out-and-back route to the summit of its namesake mountain, where you will be rewarded with panoramic views over Newberry National Volcanic Monument's vast conifer forest and shimmering lakes.
A remarkable demonstration of human endurance recently unfolded at the Earth's northernmost point, as a dedicated assembly of runners conquered the challenging terrain of the North Pole Marathon. This extraordinary competition, held annually, persists despite considerable logistical hurdles and the ongoing suspension of the conventional Barneo ice station, which traditionally facilitated such polar endeavors. On July 13th, sixty-one athletes, comprising thirty-seven men and twenty-four women, embarked on a full marathon across the dynamic ice floes of the Arctic Ocean. Additionally, fourteen participants took on the half-marathon distance, and one intrepid individual completed a solo 50-kilometer ultra-marathon. The victor of the full marathon was Oleg Polyntsev from Great Britain, finishing with an impressive time of 3 hours and 43 minutes. This year's event showcased a truly international spirit, with participants hailing from twenty-one different countries, including Poland, India, China, the United States, and many others, underscoring the global appeal of this extreme athletic pursuit.
The historical backdrop of this event reveals a saga of adaptation and perseverance. Initiated in 2003, the North Pole Marathon has seen nineteen editions, with the vast majority taking place in the spring, largely due to the logistical support provided by the temporary Russian-operated Barneo ice station. However, since 2018, Barneo has been unable to operate, a consequence of escalating geopolitical complexities, the conflict in Ukraine, and the increasingly erratic nature of Arctic sea ice. This challenging environment forced Runbuk, the organization behind the marathon, to creatively reimagine the event's execution. Their innovative solution materialized on August 16, 2023, with the successful launch of the inaugural Summer North Pole Marathon. This pivot allowed Canadian ultrarunner Patrick Charlebois and American endurance athlete Melissa Kullander to make history as the first male and female finishers of this newly conceived summer iteration. Beyond the North Pole, Runbuk also orchestrates the Antarctic Ice Marathon, catering to a niche market of well-heeled adventure tourists. Participation in these unique polar races carries a significant financial commitment, with the North Pole Marathon costing approximately $25,000 and its Antarctic counterpart around $22,500, a testament to the exclusivity and logistical complexity of these extreme events.
The logistics of reaching this remote polar destination have evolved significantly. While past spring marathons involved flights from Svalbard to the Barneo ice camp, the current summer format necessitates an intricate 16-day journey by icebreaker. This adventure commences with a flight from Paris to Longyearbyen, Svalbard, followed by boarding the polar icebreaker, Le Commandant Charcot. The vessel then navigates northward along the rugged Spitsbergen coast, offering breathtaking vistas of fjords and Arctic wildlife, before venturing into the dense ice pack. After approximately a week at sea, weather and ice conditions permitting, the marathon unfolds on a specially prepared course, meticulously monitored by polar bear guards to ensure safety. Post-race celebrations include a traditional polar plunge and an informal awards ceremony. The vessel then embarks on its return voyage, tracing its path back through the ice to Longyearbyen, from where participants fly back to Paris. Although the era of traditional sledding expeditions to the North Pole has largely concluded due to mounting costs, logistical constraints, and the undeniable impact of a warming climate, a discernible demand persists among adventurous, well-resourced travelers to experience the planet's northernmost reaches during its brief period of summer sunlight.
This ongoing spectacle of the North Pole Marathon is a powerful reminder that human ingenuity and a thirst for adventure can surmount even the most formidable obstacles. It symbolizes the indomitable spirit of exploration and the unwavering commitment to push the boundaries of what is possible, inspiring us to embrace challenges and discover new pathways when traditional routes are no longer viable. The perseverance displayed by both the organizers and the participants highlights a profound dedication to achieving extraordinary feats in the face of adversity, underscoring the enduring human desire to connect with the planet's most extreme environments and celebrate the remarkable resilience of both nature and the human spirit.
This insightful journey through the historic expanse of Route 66 in New Mexico offers a compelling counter-narrative to the road's popularized vintage charm. Instead of focusing on nostalgic Americana, the exploration delves into the profound and enduring Indigenous history that underpins this iconic American highway. It emphasizes how Native American communities along the route are actively working to preserve, interpret, and share their authentic cultural legacies, moving beyond past misrepresentations. This re-framing of Route 66 highlights a vital aspect of American heritage, inviting travelers to engage with the living traditions and contemporary lives of the diverse tribal nations whose ancestral lands the highway traverses.
\nIn the vibrant heart of New Mexico, a unique exploration of the fabled Route 66 took place, designed to unveil the rich, often overlooked, Indigenous narratives woven into its very fabric. The journey, spearheaded by writer Karen Gardiner and supported by the American Indian and Alaskan Native Tourism Association (AIANTA), deliberately bypassed the common kitsch and embraced a deeper cultural immersion.
\nThe adventure commenced in Tucumcari, a town famed for its glowing neon signs at dusk, a testament to Route 66's vintage appeal. However, the presence of structures like the Tee Pee Curios, shaped like a tipi, served as a poignant reminder of cultural appropriation, given that tipis are traditional to the Great Plains Indigenous peoples, not the Southwest. This contrast underscored the prevalent misrepresentation of Native cultures along "America's Main Street," which, since its 1926 inception and 1985 decommissioning, has crossed the lands of 25 tribal nations.
\nNew Mexico, home to 19 Pueblos, three Apache tribes, and a significant portion of the Navajo Nation, emerged as the ideal setting for this enlightened pilgrimage. The goal was to experience this legendary roadway in a manner that honored, rather than exploited, its Indigenous roots.
\nMoving westward, the journey led to Albuquerque, originally settled by the Tiwa people around 1250 CE. Here, the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, established in 1976 by New Mexico's 19 Pueblos, stood as a beacon of cultural preservation and education. Arianna Chavez, the center's Director of Cultural Education, explained that the center was founded to counteract prevalent misconceptions and stereotypes. While Route 66 brought economic opportunities, it also presented challenges of commercialization and cultural appropriation, leading artisans to adapt traditional crafts to tourist demands. Yet, the Pueblos adapted, maintaining their dignity and respect for their heritage, evident in the distinct pottery styles of Acoma, Picuris, and Taos.
\nFurther north, Santa Fe, known to the Tewa people as Oga Po'geh, became a hub of contemporary Indigenous fashion. Despite Route 66's rerouting in 1937, Santa Fe's original alignment drew visitors to Native Fashion Week Santa Fe and SWAIA Fashion Week. These events, as noted by organizer Amber Bear Robe, showcased Indigenous designers reclaiming their narrative, asserting that "This is the original design language of America." A particularly striking event featured models showcasing designs by Ojibwe designer Nonamey and Métis tribal nation's Jason Baerg aboard a train, symbolizing a reclamation of land and identity along tracks that mirrored Route 66's colonial expansion.
\nThe expedition culminated at Acoma Sky City, a venerable settlement perched atop a 365-foot mesa in western New Mexico. Inhabited by the Acoma people since 1,100 CE, making it North America's longest continuously settled community, Sky City offered breathtaking views extending to the sacred Mount Taylor. Acoma historian Brandon 'Turtle' Valdo shared insights into the community's complex relationship with tourism; while offering economic benefits, it also necessitated strict control over visitor access since 1988 to prevent theft and disrespect, ensuring that the Acoma people dictate how their story is told and their sacred spaces are experienced.
\nThis profound journey reinforced the message from Sherry Rupert of AIANTA: that Indigenous peoples are not mere historical figures or stereotypes. They are vibrant, living cultures, diverse and resilient, actively shaping their futures and welcoming respectful engagement with their rich heritage. The reality of Route 66, when viewed through an Indigenous lens, reveals a narrative far more intricate and compelling than its popular image suggests.
\nThis journey along New Mexico's Route 66, focusing on its Indigenous narratives, serves as a powerful reminder of the importance of seeking out authentic experiences. In a world often dominated by surface-level perceptions and easily consumable stereotypes, the decision to look deeper, to listen to the voices of those whose stories have been historically marginalized, enriches not only our understanding of a place but also our broader human empathy. It's a call to action for every traveler: to approach new cultures with curiosity, respect, and a willingness to learn, thereby fostering genuine connections that transcend mere tourism and contribute to a more informed and harmonious global community.