Nepal has recently announced a significant policy change, waiving climbing royalties for 97 peaks, including several previously unclimbed ones, primarily located in its western provinces. This measure, intended to stimulate tourism in these less-frequented areas, has been met with a degree of reservation from seasoned mountaineers. While the government aims to draw more adventurers away from popular sites like Everest and Manaslu, where fees are set to increase, the core issue remains that royalty fees constitute a minor component of the overall expedition expenses. Consequently, this initiative may not be the game-changer authorities hope for, as the primary deterrents to climbing in these remote regions, such as inadequate infrastructure and complex permitting processes, persist. The true appeal of these 'free peaks' lies more in their untouched nature and the allure of pioneering ascents rather than financial incentives.

The Nepalese government's decision to waive royalty fees for 97 peaks in the Karnali and Sudurpashchim provinces, effective for two years, is designed to enhance the appeal of these often-overlooked areas. Among these peaks, three ascend beyond 7,000 meters: Saipal (7,030m), Api (7,132m), and Api West (7,076m). Outfitters had hoped this could serve as a training ground for future Everest aspirants, who are now mandated to possess prior experience on 7,000-meter peaks. However, similar past initiatives between 2008 and 2018 yielded minimal interest, with only 68 climbers visiting these regions between 2023 and 2025, according to The Himalayan Times.

Experienced climbers, such as three-time Piolet d’Or recipient Mick Fowler, who has extensive knowledge of western Nepal, emphasize that the royalty fees are a negligible part of an expedition's total cost. Fowler noted that while infrastructure has seen some improvements over the last decade, reaching these remote peaks still necessitates multiple, weather-dependent flights from Kathmandu. He further explained that the peaks in western Nepal are generally less visually striking, the region is pricier, and transport unreliable. These factors, rather than the climbing fees, are the main obstacles deterring climbers.

John Kelley, another climber renowned for exploring Nepal's most secluded peaks, echoed this sentiment. He clarified that the notion of 'climbing fees waived' is misleading, as it only pertains to the royalty fees, which typically range from a few hundred dollars and are a minor component. The broader climbing permit encompasses a multitude of other substantial costs, including insurance for porters, cooks, and guides, more expensive insurance for liaison officers, and conservation area entrance fees. These additional costs mean that permit expenses for peaks below 6,500 meters can still be around $1,500, escalating to approximately $3,000 for peaks between 6,500 and 7,000 meters.

Furthermore, foreign climbers cannot directly apply for a permit; they must engage a local operator, who bundles all these expenses into their service fees before securing the permit from Nepal's Department of Tourism. This convoluted process, described by Kelley as "confusing beyond belief," adds another layer of complexity and expense. While the Nepal Peak Profile website lists the royalty fees, the updated waived fees are not yet reflected, showing, for instance, a fee of $500 for Mt. Api in spring and $250 in autumn, amounts that are indeed minor in the overall scheme of an expedition's budget.

In summary, despite Nepal's effort to incentivize exploration of its lesser-known western peaks by eliminating royalty charges, the impact on attracting a larger climbing community is likely to be limited. The allure of these challenging, untamed mountains will continue to draw a niche group of dedicated adventurers seeking the thrill of virgin ascents and remote wilderness experiences, rather than those driven by nominal cost reductions.

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