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The Food Guy's Journey: Truffles from Europe to Chicago
2024-12-06
Imagine a world where a simple chocolate treat transforms into a culinary treasure. Truffles, often mistaken as just a sweet indulgence, hold a much more fascinating story. NBC Chicago's Food Guy Steve Dolinsky embarked on a remarkable journey a few weeks ago, venturing into the forests of Northern Italy and Croatia in search of these elusive fungi.
Uncover the Hidden Delights of Truffles
Black and White Truffles: Nature's Priceless Gems
Truffles come in two distinct varieties - black and white. These precious fungi are impossible to cultivate, relying solely on the keen noses of trained dogs in the wild. Italy's Piedmont region is renowned worldwide for its truffles, but the lesser-known Croatian region of Istria also plays a significant role. Istria, a peninsula jutting out into the Adriatic Sea opposite Venice, is famous for its wine, olive oil, and of course, truffles. However, finding these truffles is no easy task, as Steve Dolinsky discovered one morning near the village of Šćulci.The first sound that greets you in the morning is not that of a rooster but of truffle-hunting dogs. Lagotto Romagnolos and labradors are trained from a young age, specifically three months old, to detect the alien-like tubers known as black and white truffles. Armin Hadžić, a truffle hunter, shared that this year has been dry, resulting in a reduced truffle harvest. "Now they offer a lot of money just to encourage hunters to come here and try their luck," he said.If a truffle hunter and their dogs are successful, they are rewarded handsomely. Truffles can fetch around a thousand dollars per pound. After a 45-minute adventure through a damp forest covered in autumn leaves, the Romagnolo finally hit paydirt - a white truffle. "You need a dog with the ability to smell one meter deep," Hadžić emphasized.Back at Karlić Tartufi, the truffles undergo a meticulous process. They are scrubbed, cleaned, and air-dried before being packaged for shipment to the United States, where they will grace tables in a day or two. In Karlić's dining room for tourists, they showcase the various applications of truffles. There are four types of black truffles that retail for more than $500 per pound, while the rarer white truffles can command six times that amount."Why are they expensive? Because they are rare. Very, very rare," explained Lidija Sirotić, one of the managers at Karlić Tartufi. Shaved raw, truffles add a unique perfume to anything they touch. "From cold dishes like salami and cheeses..." Sirotić continued. But their aroma and flavor also enhance warm dishes. "Like pasta and scrambled eggs," she added.In the West Loop, Monteverde focuses on regional Italian cooking, particularly homemade pastas. Truffles make a regular appearance on their menu for half the year, especially during this season. "White truffles are best shaved on top, never cooked with. Black truffles, on the other hand, can handle more robust flavors," said Sarah Grueneberg, the chef-owner of Monteverde. She currently offers a potato and Montasio cheese-filled žlikrofi pasta from the Friuli region, a rich dish perfect for cooler weather. "Brown butter, a little chopped truffles, and honey with a shaving of black truffles on top," she described.Tajarin, a hand-cut angel hair pasta, is tossed with European butter, rolled into a log, and drizzled with Parmesan fonduta. It is then brought to the table, where a generous shaving of white truffles is added. "It's quite fun for the chefs to come out and shave the truffles and interact with the diners," Grueneberg said.At Riccardo Trattoria in Lincoln Park, Riccardo Michi has been purchasing truffles for nearly 20 years. Usually, they will shave about 5 grams of black truffles onto dishes like warm polenta with fried eggs. The blacks can withstand the heat. "Black truffle has a longer season and is more common. White truffles are more prestigious and precious," Michi explained. But whites are also shaved tableside on tagliolini, a neutral canvas. Michi admits that it is nearly impossible to describe the eating experience. "It's difficult to explain. You have to try it for yourself," he said.By the way, Monteverde is hosting a truffle dinner on Monday night, and tickets are still available. Several other local restaurants are also offering truffles from Istria. You can learn more about where to find them from the local importer - Tartufo Prestige Chicago.Featured spots:Monteverde1020 W. Madison St., 312-888-3041Riccardo Trattoria2119 N. Clark St., 773-549-0038Tartufo Prestige@tartufoprestige.chicago (Instagram)If you're planning a trip to Croatia, don't miss Karlić Tartufi.