In celebration of Earth Week, Vogue highlights the innovative work of London-based designers focused on sustainability. Among them is Pinanki Shah, a designer whose journey from Mumbai to London has shaped her unique approach to fashion. Growing up in Mumbai, Shah was inspired by Bollywood's extravagant styles, which contrasted with her modest upbringing. Her fascination with fashion led her to create handmade garments and accessories at a young age. After studying fashion in Jaipur, she moved to London for an MA in fashion womenswear at Central Saint Martins, where she developed her signature style influenced by her surroundings.
A Journey Through Fabric and Design
In the vibrant city of Mumbai, Pinanki Shah’s childhood was filled with admiration for Bollywood stars’ opulent attire, far removed from her middle-class reality. This early exposure sparked her passion for fashion design, leading her to experiment with crafting clothes for dolls and family members. In Jaipur, Shah refined her skills while studying fashion, favoring neutral tones amidst the colorful environment. Her move to London marked a turning point, where the lack of color inspired her bold use of vibrant hues. At Central Saint Martins, Shah honed her craft, focusing on fabric, draping, and shape. Her autumn/winter 2025 collection, "In Her Rage," beautifully merges South Asian and Western influences using sustainable materials like saris from charity shops and deadstock chiffons and satins.
From her east London studio, Shah creates sculptural designs that emphasize movement and texture. Shot in a local boxing club, her collection showcases the interplay between glamorous pieces and an industrial backdrop, reflecting her commitment to sustainability and cultural fusion.
As a journalist observing Shah's work, it's inspiring to see how personal experiences and environmental influences shape sustainable fashion. Her story encourages aspiring designers to embrace their roots and surroundings, fostering creativity while promoting eco-conscious practices in the industry.
As excitement builds for the upcoming 2024 Met Gala, all eyes are on who will grace the red carpet and what they'll wear. Among the anticipated attendees is Selena Gomez, whose style has consistently left a mark at this prestigious event. Renowned for her elegance and timeless appeal, Gomez has showcased an array of memorable outfits that blend sophistication with bold choices.
Gomez made her Met Gala debut in 2014, dazzling in a striking plum gown by Diane von Furstenberg, setting a precedent for her future appearances. In 2017, she embraced the Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons theme with a white Coach slip dress adorned with delicate floral and star embroidery. Not one to shy away from taking risks, she opted for a dramatic Vera Wang creation in 2015, featuring an impressive bouquet of orchids nestled in her hair. The following year, she ventured into futuristic fashion with a Louis Vuitton ensemble that married modernity with her signature aesthetic.
In her most recent appearance in 2018, Gomez captivated audiences in a custom Coach design, characterized by its ethereal transparency, peplum waist, and sweeping train. Her consistent ability to merge classic glamour with contemporary flair leaves fans eagerly awaiting her potential return to the Met Gala stage in 2024. With such a storied history of remarkable fashion moments, Gomez continues to inspire admiration and anticipation for what might come next in the world of high fashion.
Fast fashion, an industry characterized by rapid production and affordable prices, has become a dominant force in the global clothing market. Despite its popularity, it raises significant concerns about environmental sustainability and ethical labor practices. This phenomenon involves producing trendy garments at high speeds to meet consumer demand, often leading to excessive waste and exploitation of workers. Although sustainable fashion is gaining traction among younger generations, fast fashion continues to expand both in volume and profit. By 2032, projections indicate that the U.S. fast fashion market could reach $67.77 billion. Understanding this complex issue requires examining how technological advancements and societal changes have fueled its growth.
The Evolution and Influence of Fast Fashion
In the late 19th century, the fashion industry operated on a two-season cycle—autumn/winter and spring/summer. However, as industrialization advanced, so did the capacity for mass production. With the advent of sewing machines and other innovations, manufacturers could produce larger quantities of clothing more efficiently. By the 1990s, brands such as Forever21 and Zara introduced "micro-seasons," accelerating trend cycles to over 52 per year. Today, digital-native companies like Shein and Temu leverage algorithms to churn out styles within days, creating what some call "ultra-fast fashion." In a world driven by social media, these brands capitalize on viral trends to maintain their competitive edge.
This rapid expansion comes at a price. According to the United Nations Environment Programme, the fashion industry contributes up to 10% of global carbon emissions annually. Oil-based materials like polyester, which account for roughly half of all fiber production, further exacerbate reliance on fossil fuels. These environmental consequences highlight the urgent need for reform in the fashion sector.
From its origins in seasonal collections to today's ultra-fast production models, fast fashion reflects broader shifts in technology and consumer behavior. Yet, its environmental toll and ethical challenges cannot be ignored.
A Call for Change
As a journalist observing the evolution of fast fashion, one cannot help but question whether convenience and affordability should come at such a steep cost. While it is clear that consumers crave instant access to the latest trends, the environmental degradation and worker exploitation tied to this industry demand serious reconsideration. Moving forward, there is hope in the growing awareness of sustainable alternatives. If more individuals choose quality over quantity and support ethically made products, perhaps the tide can turn. Ultimately, balancing innovation with responsibility will define the future of fashion.