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Borgo: A Manhattan Destination Worth the Journey for Food Lovers

2024-12-08

Once upon a time, Brooklyn was not the hip and interesting place it is today. Andrew Tarlow, along with Mark Firth, opened Diner in 1999 and defined the Brooklyn restaurant era. Later, Marlow & Sons followed, further refining their vision. As Brooklyn transformed, Tarlow's business grew. Now, after 11 years, he has ventured to Manhattan with Borgo on East Twenty-seventh Street.

Experience Tarlow's New Manhattan Culinary Journey

Introduction to Borgo

Borgo, Tarlow's first new restaurant in Manhattan, is a significant shift. It offers a more brightly lit space with fine serviceware and tailored linens compared to his Brooklyn spots. The live-fire oven in the open kitchen adds to the charm.

When you step into Borgo, you might notice the first name of the reservation-maker scrawled on the white paper atop the linens, reminiscent of Diner's menu dramatics. The Martini No. 2 also gets an elaborate tableside preparation, adding to the overall experience.

The kitchen's wood-burning oven is a star here. It cooks the "focaccia Borgo," a simple yet delicious flatbread with a hidden layer of cheeses. It also imparts its smoky essence to various dishes like the sweet, tiny beets and the veal sweetbreads.

The Menu

The menu at Borgo is fundamentally Italian and built around the live-fire oven. Dishes like the fava purée, a crisp-skinned half chicken, and various pastas showcase Tarlow's culinary prowess.

The fettuccine in a guinea-hen ragù is rich, while the baked cannelloni with braised beef cheeks offers a comforting taste. However, the pastas' portions seem a bit large given their strong flavors. For example, the ravioli filled with sunchoke and mushrooms is an explosion of umami initially but might feel overdone by the end.

Desserts by Adam Marca are gracefully simple. The nutty affogato with pistachio gelato and the bittersweet Sachertorte with candied apricot are delightful treats.

The Ambiance

The room at Borgo is sophisticated without being pretentious. Decorated in shades of wood and white with gently curving ceilings, it has a unique charm.

There are interesting art pieces on the walls, including a Cézanne-ish still-life painted by Tarlow's daughter and an abstract work by him. A double-sided fireplace connects the two dining rooms, adding to the cozy atmosphere.

Although they haven't quite figured out how to light the fireplace without overheating or creating a smoky haze, it still contributes to the overall mood. Borgo evokes the warmth and sophistication of earlier Manhattan Italian restaurants like Beppe and Cesca.

Summit County, renowned for its four ski resorts and high per capita income levels, presents a fascinating paradox. With an average household income of $131,395 and a median home value of $1,165,000, it stands out as a place of affluence. Yet, on any given day, nearly one-fifth of its locals face the harsh reality of not having enough to eat.

In the Heart of Skiing, a Battle with Food Insecurity

Cost of Living and Housing: Squeezing Residents' Income

Recent years have witnessed a significant explosion in the cost of living and housing for locals in Summit County. As grocery prices in Western states, including Colorado, increased by nearly 10% between 2022 and 2023, and food prices remained high even as inflation subsided, residents found themselves struggling to make ends meet. The median home price in Summit County shot up by 30% from mid-2023 to mid-2024, making it increasingly difficult for locals to afford a place to call home. Breckenridge, now the third-most-expensive town with a population under 50,000 in America, exemplifies this trend.

This surge in housing costs has sucked up most of residents' income, leaving them with little to spare for other essential needs like food. As Calvin pointed out, "People's needs skyrocketed during COVID, and that hasn't changed." The seasonal nature of the economy also adds to the insecurity, with workers like those cleaning hotels or bed and breakfasts often not getting enough hours to make ends meet, especially in the off-seasons of spring and fall.

Food Insecurity: A Growing Problem

In the same place where people pay as much as $225 for a one-day lift ticket to ski, the demand for food assistance has seen a 600% increase since 2019. Summit County now has eight different food bank programs, with organizations like CAFE Food Rescue playing a crucial role. Smart Bellies, for instance, is serving 565 families and 1,150 kids weekly in Summit and Lake counties, with 58 new families enrolling in just the past two weeks.

The Family and Intercultural Resource Center went from about 24 visits a day to its food market to more than 363 daily visits in six years. Despite this, many locals don't qualify for federal SNAP benefits because the aid is based on a national standard income with a maximum of $39,000 for a family of four. As a result, they find themselves in a no-man's land, needing aid but not qualifying for it.

Community Response: Filling the Gap

The community of Summit County has responded in an extraordinary and collaborative way to address this issue. CAFE Food Rescue, for one, opened The Hub in Silverthorne on Oct. 24, a repurposed Pizza Hut equipped with commercial-grade kitchen equipment and a walk-in refrigerator and freezer. This spacious building serves as the county's nerve center for collecting food and getting it to those in need.

CAFE Food Rescue recovers excess food from various sources such as grocery stores, event centers, restaurants, cafes, and caterers. Volunteers regularly pick up food from Whole Foods with sell-by dates that are three or four days past the packing date but are still good for another two to three days. This food is repackaged and delivered quickly to families in need before it expires.

The community has also supported CAFE Food Rescue financially, with one-third of their support coming from local and county government grants, one-third from local and state foundations, and the rest from individual donations from Summit County residents and visitors. Calvin's presentations to wealthy visitors have opened their eyes and wallets, demonstrating the community's care for each other.

In conclusion, Summit County's story is a complex one, highlighting the challenges faced by communities with a high cost of living and food insecurity. But through the efforts of organizations like CAFE Food Rescue and the collaborative spirit of the community, there is hope for a better future.

The Food and Drug Administration is on the verge of making a significant decision regarding the ban of certain food dyes in the upcoming weeks. This decision comes after receiving a petition to review the safety of Red 3. NBC News has been closely following this matter.

The FDA's Stance on Food Dyes and Their Potential Impact

Background on Red 3

Red 3, which is derived from petroleum and can be found in various snacks, beverages, and candies, has been a subject of concern. Since its first approval in 1969, the FDA has reviewed its safety multiple times. However, a recent petition has urged for an additional review.This food dye gives a vibrant cherry red hue to many products, making them more appealing. But with the holiday season in full swing and sweet treats abundant, the presence of this chemical in our food becomes a matter of concern.

Health Implications and Concerns

US Representative Frank Pallone Jr. (D-NJ) has expressed his worry, stating that there is "no reason" for this additive to be in food except to mislead customers. Thomas Galligan, a principal scientist at the Center for Science in the Public Interest, agrees, calling these food dyes a marketing tool rather than a necessary ingredient.While the FDA claims that food dyes are safe and do not pose health risks, there is evidence to the contrary. Some studies have shown potential harms such as ill effects on gut health and behavioral issues. For example, researchers have found that Red 3 causes cancer in animals.There are 27 human clinical trials that demonstrate these dyes can harm children's behavior. As some kids eat these foods, they experience nervous system effects similar to ADHD.

International and State Bans

Red 3 is not only a topic of discussion in the US but is also banned in other countries and in the state of California. This raises questions about the consistency of regulations and the adequacy of the scientific research.Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health adjunct professor Jerold Mande emphasizes the importance of the precautionary principle. He believes that it is better to be safe than sorry, especially when there is "little science" conducted by the government on these dyes.Robert F. Kennedy Jr., who was tapped by President-elect Donald Trump to be health secretary, has previously claimed a link between food dyes and cancer. This adds to the ongoing debate and uncertainty surrounding the safety of these additives.